Aspen: Ski Tips, Where to Eat, Where to Stay

Skiing and culture have been at the heart of Aspen’s heritage for more than 60 years, ever since the first chair lift—then the world’s longest—was constructed on Aspen Mountain.

Aspen’s recorded history dates back more than 120 years to the convergence of the area’s first residents, Ute Indians, with prospectors who settled the valley. By the late 1800s, the city was a modern gem in the Wild West, with six local newspapers, an opera house, churches, banks and schools, as well as a hospital that drew residents from throughout the region. The vestiges of this boom can be seen in the city’s Victorian architecture, much of which has been repurposed as shops and restaurants.

In the late 1930s, a new group of pioneers began to transform Aspen into a destination for skiing enthusiasts, a process that grew during the 1950s and 1960s as the Aspen resort complex spread to include three other ski areas. Today, it has a reputation for luxury and celebrity, and has become my favored stateside spot for skiing and snowboarding.

• A skier tackles the slopes above Aspen.
• Daniel Bayer

Primo Snow Sports

Aspen and its sister town, Snowmass Village, are edged by four ski areas: Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands, Snowmass and Buttermilk.

Keep in mind that Snowmass and Aspen Mountain typically open for the season two weeks earlier than Aspen Highlands and Buttermilk, which this year means skiers and boarders can hit the slopes Nov. 27. So, if you like to spend Thanksgiving enjoying a downward trajectory, this is the place for you. Going early also means snagging pre-season prices on lift tickets. Often, you can save about $90, and even though it’s an official holiday, the mountain’s not packed with people.

Although the first chairlift on Aspen Mountain made its debut more than 60 years ago, a recent $35 million improvement continues to cinch the area’s luxury reputation. Snowboarders of every level will want to check out the new 22-foot Olympic-size halfpipe at Buttermilk, as well as new runs at Aspen Highlands.

• A family enjoys a day on the slopes at Aspen Snowmass.
• Hal Williams

My favorite pick is Aspen Mountain, but if you’re not an experienced skier, your options are a bit limited. The majority of runs are designed for experienced boarders and skiers, and the runs are blissfully uncrowded. There are a few trails that allow you to ski right into Aspen proper, which is one of the mountain’s most endearing features.

The Family That Skis Together Stays Together

For families—and I have four children ranging in age from teenager to infant—I recommend Buttermilk. It has a great ski school and wide, rolling runs that build confidence, no matter what the learner’s age. There aren’t as many trails as Aspen Mountain (44, compared to Aspen Mountain’s 76), but the runs are roomy, and include a nice mix of beginner and intermediate trails. If you’re just starting to ski, or are skiing with your kids, check out West Buttermilk. The long trails give plenty of room to practice new skills, but aren’t intimidating.

If you haven’t been to Snowmass recently, chances are you won’t recognize it. The Snowmass base village now has ski-in condos and a conference center, as well as new restaurants and an impressive experience for kids, known as the Treehouse Kids’ Adventure Center.

Billed as a “first of its kind” venue, the Treehouse offers front-door drop-off, which I fell in love with immediately. Just knowing I didn’t have to park and hike with a baby, preschooler, and their gear in tow, made me smile.

My preschool-age daughter was enthralled with The Bear Den, which has a theater for puppet shows and a napping loft. (She didn’t actually take a nap, but she certainly considered it.) The helpers were lovely, and even though it was an entirely new experience for my daughter, she was eager to stay. Parents everywhere, particularly those already wearing their ski boots, will understand how priceless this is.

With themed rooms for children ranging from 8 weeks to teenagers, the 25,000-square-foot Treehouse also houses the kids’ ski and snowboard schools (when they’re not on the mountain, of course). Nearby, there are magic carpets for skiing tots and kid-friendly gondolas to deliver students to various trails. In fact, my preschool-age daughter could access the magic carpets from The Bear Den, which prompted us to enroll her in a combination ski lesson/child care program. Genius!