Not Your Grandfather’s Branson

My friends think I’m crazy.

That’s because I have found the most unlikely of vacation spots: Branson, Mo. A town of 6,000 inhabitants nestled in the rolling Ozark Mountains, Branson has grown into one of the most popular tourist destinations in the country. Hard to believe, though, for people who like myself journeyed to this hamlet back in the 1970s to visit Silver Dollar City, then an old-time amusement park that peddled corn husk dolls and homemade candles made while you watched.

Times—They Have Changed

In the early 1990s, Branson gained worldwide attention after a 60 Minutes special featured the town as the new Nashville. Country stars along with crooner Andy Williams, the Osmond Brothers and Japanese fiddler great Shoji Tabushi built theaters fit for entertainment kings. Still, Branson retained a hokey feel that still remains a perception today, especially among people who can’t shake visions of corn cob pipes, outlet malls and twangy country tunes.

Branson first became known as a tourist destination in 1907, when Shepherd of the Hills debuted. People traveled from all over the country to see the play about the stoic Missouri hill people that minister Harold Bell Wright met in the early 1900s. The play celebrated its 100th birthday in 2007.

• Silver Dollar City was the first theme park to open in Branson, in the 1960s.
• Shane Adams

These days, Branson offers non-stop fun—more than 100 live shows in 52 theaters that rival those found in Las Vegas, amusement parks, 12 championship golf courses, museums, high-end shopping and restaurants—while still maintaining its original quaintness. 

It’s become my favorite playground. I’m not alone. In 2006, Branson was named a Top 10 Worldwide Destination by travel expert Pauline Frommer. To keep up with the latest offerings, be sure to use the Branson/Lakes Area Chamber of Commerce and CVB (www.explorebranson.com) when planning your visit.

The New Branson

Along with Silver Dollar City, Branson’s town square was a main tourist destination in the 1970s. It still resembles a movie set for an Andy Griffith Show remake with the Fudge Shop, local diners and The Five and Dime General Store, an authentic five-and-dime where shoppers can still buy souvenir thimbles and spoons, holiday decorations and even underwear.

But walk just a few blocks toward Lake Taneycomo and Branson becomes 21st century glitz. Branson Landing, a $400 million project, offers shops, restaurants and condos along a 1.5-mile scenic boardwalk.

• The Branson Landing Trolley makes its way north up the Promenade at Branson Landing.
• Courtesy of the Branson/Lakes Area Chamber of Commerce & CVB

We enjoyed drinks on the patio at Waxy O’Shea’s, a quaint Irish pub, and watched the landing’s main attraction—a $7.5 million water extravaganza, created by the team that designed Las Vegas’ Bellagio fountain. It’s the country’s only water, fire, light and music display where fountains shoot 120-foot dancing geysers choreographed with light, fire and music.

Dinner at the 1940s swanky Sullivan’s Steak House—order the filet and a bottle of wine from its mammoth collection—offers such a close view of the fountain that mist falls on the restaurant’s deck.

The Landing is within easy walking distance to the new 200,000-square-foot convention center and the 12-story Hilton Branson Convention Center Hotel.

In the last decade, the city of Branson and Taney County have invested more than $40 million in road improvements to build or rebuild 18 miles of roads to help with traffic flow. Traffic congestion is still a problem on Highway 76, also known as the “Strip.” It’s wise to have a cup of coffee in Clockers, a cozy downtown diner with hearty country breakfasts and peach cobblers for dessert, and study the color-coded alternative routes before beginning the day.