Chicago: Eating Out in the Windy City

There’s no need for any child or adult to go hungry in Chicago. Known for its pizza, hot dogs (it is commonly believed here that it’s illegal for anyone over age 18 to put catsup on a Chicago hot dog), ethnic restaurants and world-class chefs, this town is ready for the most discerning of palates.

Fun for All

Ed Debevic’s

Ask my kids where they want to eat in Chicago, and there’s only one place they always agree on: Ed Debevic’s. They giggle incessantly over the rude (but harmless) graffiti and ruder (and funnier) waiters and waitresses in this 1950s-style diner. My kids love it—even when the waitress yells at them for not cleaning their plates. The burgers, chili and hot dogs are fab and the atmosphere is pure, kitschy (and affordable) fun.

640 N. Wells St., tel. 312-664-1707, www.eddebevics.com

Margie’s Candies

This neighborhood institution makes its own candy and ice cream daily in the store. Margie’s Candies still has the same feel it had when it opened in 1921 and, best of all, it still serves the hot fudge in a separate bowl so it’s still warm when you pour it over the rich ice cream. The menu is long and it doesn’t really matter what you order. There are no bad sundaes here. My challenge always is ratcheting down the kids’ expectations—and orders. If I let them, they’d order the World’s Largest Sundae, a full half-gallon’s worth.

1960 N. Western Ave., tel. 773-384-1035

• Teens wear Ed Debevics hats while enjoying the quirky diner atmosphere.
• Richie Diesterheft

Chicago Classics

Billy Goat Tavern

OK, so this one isn’t for those with discerning palates or even those who like a really clean place to eat. But for a decent “cheeseborger” and pure Chicago ambiance, head to Lower Michigan Avenue, home to the real Billy Goat Tavern, where you can “butt in anytime.” It’s easiest to find if you start at Tribune Tower on upper Michigan—my kids love checking out the stones from famous structures around the world embedded in the building’s façade—then walk down the stairs into the belly of the city. Cross Lower Michigan to the entrance of this beer and burger joint.

Don’t be put off by the grubbiness. This is pure Chicago history, famous as the watering hole for gritty Chicago journalists such as Mike Royko and the Saturday Night Live skit in which the late, great Chicagoan, John Belushi, would bellow, “Cheeseborger, cheeseborger. No fries, cheeps. No Pepsi, Coke.” There are Billy Goat outposts. Don’t bother. They may serve the same food, but could never replicate the years of dirt, grease and memories. It is not the first place you would think to take kids—the children of local journalists are the most likely kids to be found there—but give it a look, even if you choose not to stay for the “cheeseborgers.” A visit makes my son, now 14, feel like a real Chicagoan. And he says the food isn’t bad either.

430 N. Lower Michigan Ave., tel. 312-222-1525, www.billygoattavern.com

Lou Mitchell’s

Head to this diner in the shadow of the city’s financial markets for a great breakfast. While you’re there, rub elbows with the city’s big money men and political power brokers. Don’t be put off by the long lines. My kids love the donut holes and Milk Duds passed out for guests to munch on while they wait. Besides, chances are it won’t take long. These folks understand about “table turn”; they know how to get people in, get them fed and send them off with full bellies and happy memories. It’s reasonably priced, but please note: this is a cash-only operation.

565 W. Jackson Blvd. tel. 312-939-3111 www.loumitchellsrestaurant.com