Québec: North America’s European City

Québec City may be close to the U.S. border, but this Canadian city feels more like a bit of Europe. From first sight, its steep rooflines, massive city walls and imposing gates make you feel as though you’d crossed an ocean. Throw in the French-speaking locals, and the illusion deepens. Then there’s the food—ooh-la-la!

But all the time, you’re in friendly Canada, where things work pretty much as they do at home (if you’re from the United States, that is), and where most people also speak English. And in 2008, Québec City celebrates its 400th anniversary with a yearlong blowout birthday party. If you’ve never been here, now is the time to see it. And if you’ve visited before, it’s high time to go back, see what’s new and join the celebration.

The city is widely known for its Winter Carnival, which features Bonhomme, the snowman, as its host. Each year, the festivities include snow sculptures, sleigh rides, ice skating, snow slides, parades and winter sports such as canoe and dogsled races. But Québec is full of surprises to span all four seasons, so if you miss the Carnival, there are many reasons to keep the city on your calendar the rest of the year.

Québec is a romantic city, with narrow, winding streets, sidewalk cafés, and music in the air. Horses clop along the stone-paved streets, pulling open carriages filled with couples soaking up the atmosphere. Québec is also an ideal destination for the entire family, with plenty of activities geared to children, especially during the birthday celebration. There are plenty of forts and interactive museums to entertain all ages, but the city’s lively street scene is the best show of all. Plus, older children will enjoy practicing a little French.

• Horses pull passengers along Rue Saint-Louis.
• David Paul Ohmer

Getting Around

One of the beauties of Québec is its compact arrangement. Most sights are within walking distance—and walking is the best way to get around this old city, vertically assisted by the funicular, which kids love and weary adults welcome.

The place to begin is on the Terrasse Dufferin, a wide promenade between the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac and the steep drop-off to the old port city bordering the river below. In the winter there’s a slide set up here—the long line moves fast and the ride is fun. In better weather, the terrace is a popular place for outdoor entertainers—mimes, magicians, musicians of all sorts. It’s also a good place to get an overview of how the city lies. From this vantage you’ll see that it’s in layers, with a riverside park, the old town with the port, and the walled city at the top of the bluff. Even though the city is pretty small, it has distinct neighborhoods, and people will refer to them when giving you directions.

Neighborhoods

Quartier Petit Champlain

The narrow strip between the river and the palisades, directly below Terrasse Dufferin, boasts narrow streets and historic squares filled with cafés, boutiques and craftsmen’s studios. The Québec Funicular or long stairs ascend to the terrace.

Vieux-Port

The old port is bordered by the docks of Bassin Louise—a large manmade lake that is a focal point of the city, just north of the Quartier Petit Champlain and extending all the way to the train station. The city market is here, a good place to buy picnic provisions.

• The funicular, viewed from the Quartier Petit Champlain.
• Luciano

Vieux Québec

The upper city enclosed by the walls and the top of the bluff, includes the Citadel. Many of the most important historic sites are crowded into its narrow streets.

The Plains of Abraham

A vast park along the top of the palisades, where you’ll find walking paths, gardens, the Musée National des Beaux-Arts and various historic sites related to the battle that ended French control of Canada.

Parliament Hill

The area around the impressive Parliament Building, bordering the Plains of Abraham.

Saint-Jean-Baptiste

Part of the Upper Town outside the walls, at the other side of Parliament Hill.