San Francisco Vacation: An Insider’s Guide - 2

Mission District and WPA-era Murals—The Mission District is San Francisco’s Latin Quarter. A wealth of cuisine can be found here, from taquerias and pupuserias to Bretagne crêpes to the fantastic Mitchell’s Ice Cream shop (688 San Jose Ave.). [Read our Quirky San Francisco article for offbeat destinations in the Mission and elsewhere in the city.] You may come for the food, but stay for the murals in Balmy Alley. The Precita Eyes Mural Arts and Visitors Center offers weekend walking tours of the murals in the neighborhood.

The Works Progress Administration (WPA) was a relief measure established in 1935, which gave unemployed artists the opportunity to decorate many public buildings. Notable WPA murals in San Francisco can be found in Telegraph Hill’s Coit Tower and the Visitor’s Center on the ground floor of the Beach Chalet at Ocean Beach. Precita Eyes. 2981 24th St., tel. 415-285-2287. www.precitaeyes.org. Coit Tower. One Telegraph Hill, tel. 415-362-0808. Beach Chalet Brewery and Restaurant. 1000 Great Hwy., tel. 415-386-8439. www.beachchalet.com.

North Beach—The North Beach neighborhood is home to San Francisco’s Little Italy and the Beat movement of authors (most notably, Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg). Linger in Washington Square and gaze at the towering Saints Peter and Paul Church—where Marilyn Monroe and Joe Dimaggio took wedding photos after getting married at City Hall. Stop in at City Lights Bookstore (261 Columbus Ave.), the original publisher of Allen Ginsberg’s Howl. Wander down Grant Ave., the oldest street in San Francisco, and part of the original Barbary Coast. Wind up your visit at any of the neighborhood’s Old World delis or cafés. One of my favorites is Caffe Trieste, at 601 Vallejo St.

• A York Street mural in the Mission District of San Francisco.
• patrickmccully

Don’t Miss: Family Attractions

Children love everything in the First-Timers through the Return Travelers lists (although younger kids may get bored with the murals much sooner than teenagers will). Younger children can return to Fisherman’s Wharf on nearly every San Francisco trip, and they’re happy. Here are a few more fun places for families in the city:

Koret Children’s Quarter—The perfect place to let the kids play until they can’t play any more. One of the oldest playgrounds in the United States (renovated in 2007), it includes swings, slides, climbing Treehouse Village and wave walls, and is home to a 1912 Herschell-Spillman carousel (which was originally powered by steam). My 4-year-old niece Sofia prefers the carousel and slides, while her 1-year-old brother Dominic is wild about the swings. Located at 320 Bowling Green Dr. in Golden Gate Park. Tel. 415-831-5500.

• The Koret Children’s Quarter is one of the best playgrounds in San Francisco.
• Shearer Family

Exploratorium—This interactive science museum at the Palace of Fine Arts is a dream for both kids and adults. In fact, going with kids is probably the best way to experience the Exploratorium. See with your hands in the Tactile Dome; play professor in the Biology Lab; learn about life sciences, electricity, physics and sound with fun, hands-on exhibits. The Exploratorium even has seasonal events, such as the Phantasmagorium Halloween Night—full of sweet and spooky activities. 3601 Lyon St., tel. 415-561-0360. www.exploratorium.edu.

Chocolate and Fortune Cookies—What kid doesn’t like sweet treats, especially on vacation? And in San Francisco, you can watch chocolate and fortune cookies being made before you dig in. At the Ghirardelli Ice Cream and Chocolate Shop at Ghirardelli Square, you can see the original ice cream and chocolate manufactory, where Ghirardelli Chocolate began in 1852. Stay to sample the goods, of course. The Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory is located in Chinatown’s Ross Alley, the oldest alley in San Francisco. Watch fortunes being placed on top of thin, flat cookies before they get folded into their familiar shape. The best part of the visit is tasting freshly made fortune cookies. Ghirardelli Ice Cream and Chocolate Shop. 900 North Point St., tel. 415-474-3938. www.ghirardellisq.com. Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory. 56 Ross Alley, tel. 415-781-3956.

• Young children love watching the chocolate being made at the Ghirardelli Chocolate Factory.
• Calista Chandler

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art—SFMOMA offers a spectacular array of modern art, and their Family Days include gallery tours for families and hands-on art projects—at no charge. Upcoming Family Programs in 2008 are Sept. 21 (celebrating Hispanic Heritage Month), Oct. 5 (science and photography) and Oct. 19 (science and art). [Read about Zeum, a nearby children’s museum, in our Child’s Play article.] 151 Third St. Call the Education Programs Information Line (tel. 415-947-1292) to reserve your spot, as space is limited. www.sfmoma.org.

Where to Stay

Well-known classic hotels in San Francisco include the Mark Hopkins San Francisco with its fabulous bay views) and the Westin St. Francis in the heart of Union Square (which is scheduled to complete a $40 million restoration in spring 2009). In addition, San Francisco-founded hotel chains Kimpton and Joie de Vivre, have plenty of excellent and unique properties in the city, such as the Hotel Vitale (see below).

Hotel Vitale. The luxurious Hotel Vitale on San Francisco’s waterfront (conveniently across the Embarcadero from the Ferry Building Marketplace) opened in 2005. With comfortable modern interiors, smashing service, tasty bar and restaurant Americano, and spa (complete with rooftop soaking tubs—I’ve tried them!), this is one of my favorite hotels in the city. 8 Mission St., tel. 888-890-8688. www.hotelvitale.com. Rates begin at $319 per night for superior queen and king rooms.