Whistler: British Columbia's Playground

Just 75 miles north of Vancouver in Canada’s most western province of British Columbia sits Whistler. This idyllic ski resort transforms into a nature lover’s paradise in spring, summer and fall, making it a resort for all seasons. “I almost like it better in summer than in winter,” a local woman tells me. And that is no small statement, as Whistler holds the key to some of the best skiing in North America, with vast skiable terrain—more than 8,000 acres and 200 runs—and the only skiable glaciers on the continent.

But visit in summer and these same mountains become a hiking and biking mecca with black bear viewing thrown in as a bonus and summer glacier skiing for those that can’t decide which season is best.

• Whistler Village in the fall.
• Andrew Doran

Whistler Winters

The best season for me is usually winter, as Whistler is one of my favorite ski resorts. (This coming from a person who’s shimmied down pistes everywhere from St. Moritz and Chamonix to Salt Lake City, Jackson Hole, Aspen, Vail and more.) Why, you ask? The village is charming, with pedestrian-friendly streets and no car needed; most resorts are slope-side or within quick walking distance; the skiing…well, it’s just downright fabulous; and there are no airs in Whistler, no attitude, and that goes a long way for me.

Whether you’re one of the tons of young Australians that work the resort in winter, a Brit on ski holiday who’s in search of great snow conditions, or one of the many families that visit from South America or Japan, Whistler is an accepting place. And, the resort area is only getting better in preparation for hosting the 2010 Winter Olympic downhill, cross-country and ski-jumping events, with the Olympics slated for Feb. 12-28, 2010 in tandem with Vancouver.

• The author's daughter on a zipline over the frozen forest.
• Anne Kazel-Wilcox

But you don’t have to be a skier or snowboarder to like Whistler in winter. Non-ski activities include awesome zip-trek tours high above the icy forests, a tour that absolutely wowed my 8-year-old. And there’s snowshoeing, cross-country skiing and ice climbing for the adventuresome, and tubing for all ages. Those with more relaxing thoughts in mind can ride down the slopes snuggled in a passenger chair on skis, a “Sno-Limo” invented in Whistler and navigated by a personal chauffeur. It’s especially a treat for the non-skier who wants to partake in their family’s ski adventure. “My biggest problem was trying to stop laughing,” said one woman after enjoying the ride. (Our Whistling in Winter article covers even more activities.)

For easier undertakings, there are several fine spas in Whistler. The spa at the Four Seasons Whistler offers an après-ski massage. Its hot-stone therapy made me dreamily forget more strenuous adventures. The renowned Fairmont Chateau Whistler—a ski-in, ski-out resort rising like a castle from the bottom of the mountain slopes—also features an elegant spa. (Read more about each resort here.)