Pittsburgh may not be as cosmopolitan as New York City or Chicago, but the sheer volume and variety of its dining and drinking options easily rival that of either of those aforementioned metropolises. An eclectic immigrant population accounts for streets dotted with restaurants serving French, Italian, Greek, Japanese, Chinese, Indian, Vietnamese, Ukrainian, and even some of the country's most beloved takes on traditional American fare; both the Big Mac and Heinz Ketchup originated here in Pittsburgh.
Downtown
First thing in the morning, Downtown is a bustling farmer's market. The same energy flows through the lunch hour, with hordes of locals and tourists alike devouring Rubens and matzo ball soup at the Smallman Street Deli. Once night falls, the neighborhood takes on a decidedly different vibe. Converted warehouses and factories house dance clubs like The World and cutting-edge restaurants like Roland's. Start your evening off right with Happy Hour at Mullaney's Harp & Fiddle. For dinner, stop by Lidia's, the Pittsburgh outpost of a world-famous Italian-food empire. Once full, take in some rock 'n' roll (and a few more drinks) at the 31st Street Pub, a factory-workers' watering hole turned hipster hangout. When the time comes, slake your late-night munchies with one of Primanti Bros.' infamous Primanti Sandwiches (meat, cheese, coleslaw and fries piled high and packed between two thick slices of Italian bread).
After the Strip, pay a visit to Market Square's 1902 Landmark Tavern offers you a taste of the Pittsburgh of old (as well as tastes of booze, seafood and grilled steaks). Caffe Amante's got many similar offerings, albeit with a strong Italian foundation, though perhaps not as strong as that of F. Tambellini Ristorante. Christo, the chef at Christo's, made a name for himself as Jackie Kennedy Onassis' personal cook aboard her personal yacht. If, rather than dinner and history, you'd prefer dinner and jazz, head on into Dowe's on 9th for soul food and live bands.
North Side
It is clear at this point that beer enthusiasts have a lot to look forward to on a trip to Pittsburgh, but perhaps none as surreal as Lawrenceville's Church Brew Works, an enormous beer hall on the site of a former church. Just a ways down Liberty Avenue is Del's Bar & Ristorante DelPizzo, in Bloomfield. Here, you'll delight in freshly baked gourmet pizza pies, or perhaps a rich veal entrée if you're feeling hungry.
This neighborhood is home to sports meccas PNC Park and Heinz Field, so the dining options tend toward the pub and tavern variety. Penn Brewery is a keeper, featuring authentic German-style lagers and hearty German cuisine, all served in an historic industrial building. The Triangle Bar is classic Americana, famous for its huge hoagies (with names like "Destroyer" and "Battleship") and popular with locals for keeping special hours in accordance with Steelers games.
Southside
This is the place to be on weekends. Carson Street is packed with a striking variety of restaurants and bars that attract everyone from yuppies to bikers. During soccer season, spend an afternoon at Piper's Pub, a place so authentically British that soccer here is called "football" and games are "matches." If you're up for it, sample a handful of the wide variety of scotches Piper's offers. Mario's/Blue Lou's Southside Saloon were two bars that went so well together, the proprietors knocked down the wall dividing them, opening up one massive complex for patrons to enjoy; stop in at Happy Hour and see this anomaly for yourself. When hunger strikes, the options never end. Pop into Donnie's for a simple, hearty sandwich. Or try Fat Head's Saloon for a sandwich that is anything but simple. Their menu of colossal sandwiches (such as "The Artery Clogger") goes well with their startlingly global beer selection. For something more formal, enjoy drinks, jazz and dinner at Paparrazi. Or visit Dish for a contemporary yet traditional take on Italian. If steak is your fancy, go no further than the Pittsburgh Steak Company, and if you prefer surf to turf and you like your surf raw, step into Sushi Two. Finally, finish your night with a game of pool and perhaps some late-night snacks at Shootz Café.
East End
Among other things, Oakland is home to some of Pittsburgh's most beloved Indian food. Star of India is famous for its wildly popular lunch buffet. India Garden is sitting pretty as well, having been continually chosen by Pittsburghers as their absolute favorite. If spice sounds good, but you crave something with a little more of a South-of-the-border kick, venture into Mad Mex, an esteemed regional chain that serves up lovingly made monster-sized burritos (alongside your choice of a number of interesting microbrews). For a mellower meal than all of that, slip into Oakland's Spice Island Tea House, a tranquil spot specializing in pan-Asian cuisine. Vegetarians love it here!
Here, we depart from tavern-centric dining and get decidedly more eclectic. Sandwiches, salads, soups and more, all featuring fresh seasonal ingredients are the stars of the show at Cafe Zinho. Girasole also traffics in fresh and seasonal fare, this time with an Italian flair. While Italy may be on the Mediterranean, its cuisine is by no means the only dining option there. Casbah presents a broad range of specialties from countries and cultures all around the storied sea. While Casbah celebrates a whole panoply of cultures, La Feria sets its sights on just one. It is a restaurant/craft gallery dedicated to preserving and honoring Peruvian culture. Enjoy some South American soul food and then peruse the gift shop. Finally, sometimes you just crave sushi. When the mood hits you, hit Sushi Too.